norcal surf

today i hit up pacifica and half moon bay. (i didn't realize it was the location of the mavericks! just about another half mile out, i guess.) i met up with beeg's friend z and we grabbed a board and wetsuit and went to pacifica first. there weren't any good waves and the water temp was supposed to be about 53, air temp 57, and the area is so foggy that there's an updraft of fog that covers the mountain road as you drive through it.



we found a surf shop that had a 4/3 wetsuit and a 9' longboard. they told us to go south to half moon bay, and we headed out at about 2:15. about half way down we found a small surf spot between some large cliffs - it was actually really pretty from the bottom - but the waves were so rough that we couldn't get past the breaks for about half an hour, and i was completely beat. walking back up the stairs on the cliffs wasn't much fun either - i only carried the shortboard but by the time i was at the top my head was spinning.



we decided to keep going - and finally passed princeton harbor which the surf shop told us to look for. then, there was a long stretch of road that lined a long stretch of sandy beach. this place was much calmer and the waves were more solid. i got several good runs in with both the long board and beeg's shortboard.



the water was a bit colder at the half moon bay than the little place in the cliffs, but it wasn't cold enough to need boots. i rented a 4/3 but some people were swimming without a wetsuit, so the next time i think i'll go with my 3/2. funny enough, after surfing today i don't have a huge craving for beer and barbeque like i usually did in san diego. i am just dead tired and not sure if i'd be able to go rock climbing later. i guess it's just how out of shape i am right now.

and the best part about california is that now i am sitting in rich's apartment, and there's a lot of sun streaming in the window. so when i return to boston i hope that i'll have an apartment tan.